Spring 2010 Langtang trekking

Seven enthusiastic trekkers from Edmonton descended on Kathmandu in mid March to experience trekking and the culture of Nepal. After arriving in the international airport, they were loaded on a bus and taken to the area of Thamel in central Kathmandu. Learning not to drink the water nor brush teeth from the taps was the first order, but after a good sleep and a breakfast in the hotel, they were ready for whatever the day presented. This included dust, noisy cars, rickshaws, taxi, dogs, people hawking wares, diesel fumes, street food cooking, bicycles, spitting and discovering some surprisingly good coffee!

After gaining their bearings over several days, touring Swayambunath (monkey temple) and a bit of shopping, everyone loaded up the bus and endured an 8 hour joint-rattling ride to Dhunche. The days became fairly routine with packing up, eating breakfast, trekking, stopping for tea, meeting locals, taking photos, and really enjoying the scenery which is very beautiful. Arriving most days at our destination mid-day, or mid-afternoon, allowed for time to do yoga, wash some socks & underwear or to have a tea and a nap. Dinner was usually done by 6pm and we were taking another breakfast order for the next day. Off to brush teeth, read and into the sleeping bags for most everyone by 8pm and a nice long sleep, interrupted only by visits to the toilet (too much tea!) or by barking dogs nearby.

Some spectacular views enjoyed by Isobel, Deb, Don, Gary, Steve, Donna and Kay were Langtang Lirung (7219m), Langshisa Ri, the Ganesh Himal, mountains at the Tibet border and as far west as the Annapurnas. What a fun group to trek with. Good humor, lots of stories, trekking hours on the trail, sharing interesting conversations, and good food in most areas helped everyone to connect. (oh yeah, Don, where's your lens cap?) Everyone was flexible, adapted and became very comfortable with the various conditions each day presented. Some special comforts of the trail included a portable toilet, a gallon jug of hand wash, pounds of missionaries (prunes,) and more toilet paper than most of the shops carried! The best extra was the peanut butter, of course. I carried far more than I really needed - adding a solar charger, iPod, Via coffee packets, unnecessary layers, and more books than I could read in a few months.

Well, everyone survived the elevations at Kyangjin and Gosainkunda lakes, as well as the intense sun. With good memories of trekking days on the trail, peeling noses, and a desire for a good shower (for some a bubble bath was desired, but alas, not very available!) we arrived back in Kathmandu surviving another bumpy 8 hour ride and set sights on the Hindu and Buddhist temples, the city of Bhaktapur and more last minute shopping in Kathmandu. On April 3, we loaded the mini-bus and headed for the airport. The next hurdle was getting all that gear through security and I am sure customs in Vancouver was a breeze.  To my group: thanks to you all for a fun time in Nepal, and hope to see you in 2011 on the ABC trek.
Namaste,
Neil

Observations of Nepal

Some observations to record for 2010 -

• Prices - food costs increase substantially the higher up one goes on the trails. On the ABC trek, one liter of boiled and filtered water goes from about 40 rupees in Dhampus to 70 rupees in Landruk. This is a mineral water (plastic) free zone, which other National parks should adopt. Dal bhat averages 270 rupees.
• many Koreans trekking in Nepal. The French used to dominate but I think Korea now is the biggest country of origin.
• spring is browner overall than fall but the national flower is the rhododendron, Laliguras, is in full bloom in many forests, creating a sea of red. There are also pink and white rhododendrons.A shrub in full bloom for spring is the Lokta from which Nepal artists make paper. It is a pink flower with a strong fragrance resembing lilac.
• the Modi Kola is one of the big rivers of Nepal but running low this year due to low winter snows and very little rain.
• Micro hydro plants are in many villages now as no one can rely on power being on at any given time. Although Nepal produces enough power for the country it sells much of it to India and causes deliberate shortages throughout the country. In Kathmandu, often 8-10 hours of power shedding each day. Every hotel has a backup generator offering limited power, but this adds to the pollution problems.
• Tea house rooms are still the same - two single beds, a table, window and a door. If one is lucky a clean vinyl floor, or stone or wood. Some with spiders, a compact florescent light and paper thin walls. None are heated which creates cold sleeping conditions at higher elevations above 3000m.
• Porters - the backbone of Nepal! No trekking, camping, or climbing group could be successful without their strength and knowledge. They are keen, observant and nearly all have either a cellphone or MP3 player for the latest Indian or Nepali tunes or calling their friends and family.
• Food - dal bhat, rice and curry veg, muesli with hot milk or local curd (yogurt) called dahi, Gurung or Tibetan breads, chapatis, Rosti with fried egg and nak cheese, mushroom or tomato soups, tomato cheese macaroni and some variations on Pizza round out many of the menus.
• Drinks - water (boiled, filtered), lemon tea, ginger (adwa) tea, black tea, Nepali masala chia, black coffee, and fresh mint tea all available nearly everywhere.