Everest Base Camp Trek 2014

One of the most challenging and rewarding treks in the world is the Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal. It has been rated in the top 10 must do treks anywhere due to the altitudes, variety of terrain and views of the highest mountains on earth!

Mani (prayer) stones and prayer wheel

A group of 10 folks joined me at the Vajra Hotel near the Monkey Temple in Kathmandu. Seven of the 10 have returned multiple times to join me in trekking a new part of Nepal. Brave souls! We walked the Monkey temple and then on to Thamel and Himalayan Java for lattes - very civilized! That evening we weighed the trekking bags to ensure none over 15kg which is the limit for porters and for our baggage on the flight to Lukla. Apparently we were pretty close to the ideal group weight for the flight!

Lukla Airport

High bridge crossing Dudh Khosi

We got up at 4:30am, boarded a bus to the domestic airport and stood in line at 5:30am for the airport to open. The plan was to be on the first flight at 6am but these planes fly on VFR (visual flight regulations) so need a minimum of visibility in Kathmandu and Lukla to fly safely. Our wait was not much more than an hour and we arrived in Lukla (2840m) just before 8am landing on the scariest airstrip - uphill portion provides additional braking capability! We brought 2 porters with us on the flight, and as we were a group of 11, we had to hire 4 more in Lukla. All organized and loaded up, we headed out on the trail for the 2.5 hour hike, mostly downhill, to Phakding (2610m). As soon as the sun went down the cold chill descended upon us and gave us a sense of things to come!

Namche Bazar (3440m)

The next day we walked along the Dudh Kosi river and then the grinding climb of 800 meters to Namche Bazar. When in the sun, it was warm, however when a cloud came up or standing in the shade the breeze was cold and extra layers were brought out of our packs. Namche Bazar is a large collection of teahouses and lodges in a bowl at 3440 meters and requires an extra rest day to acclimatize to this altitude. There are outdoor gear shops, pharmacies, bookshops, souvenirs galore - almost anything you could want at this edge of civilization. Our rest day was spent at the local bakery and coffee shop resting and allowing our bodies to get used to the thin air and cold. Nights were bearable, but the dining room was not heated by a stove - only by numbers of other trekkers filling the room!

Ama Dablam (6856m)

It was exhilarating to head up the hill and along airy trails in the sunshine way above the valley below! Ama Dablam, my favorite mountain, came into view and our destination - Tengboche. We had a huge descent to the river and on up to Tengboche at 3860m. The sun was warm however upon arrival the afternoon convective cloud came in an we felt the cold chill again. Fortunately the dining room had stoves and we had a warm dinner with lots of milk tea before retiring to our cold rooms. The next morning our windows were frosted and outside temperatures were probably minus 8 C. Tengboche is the site of a major monastery, however there was a death in town and no puja's (ceremonies) were on. As we left at 8am the death march was happening behind us when the monks carried a body to a high ridge above town with ceremonial horns and cymbals catching our attention.

Chortan near Tengboche Monastery

Mt. Everest and Lhotse

As the days unfolded, we gained altitude, felt the cold nights more deeply, but enjoyed a few hours of warm sun every afternoon until the cloud came in. We enjoyed delicious pizza, soups and a variety of teas - masala tea, milk tea, black tea, lemon tea and ginger! Keeping well hydrated at altitude is a necessity. We arrived in Dingboche (4410m) and had a planned rest day to acclimatize. We were now experiencing 1/3 less oxygen as at sea level so most of us experienced breathlessness, sleep apnea, and due to the dry air a few colds and coughs. The nights were tough - cold rooms, up to pee several times in the night, faulty showers and confined to a sleeping bag for 10 hours or more! Sounds like no fun, but such are the challenges of this trek. The views got better and better. Our weather remained clear and cold. Frosty nights dipped to -10C and our water bottles froze in our rooms. Even the hoses on our hydration packs froze at times.

Afternoon cloud at sunset in Dingboche

Now we headed north into the Khumbu valley and followed the glacial moraines to overnight in Dughla (4620m), Lobuche (4910m) and eventually the last permanent settlement of Gorak Shep at 5140 meters! Here the air holds only about half the oxygen of sea level and we felt it. The rooms were cold, the days cold, the sun intense however the views were stunning!

Gorak Shep village, Kala Pattar and the big white peak of Pumori 

Mt. Everest is 3rd peak from left, hidden by Nuptse

EBC base camp was now just a pile of rocks as all climbing teams have left for the season. I suggested everyone walk up to the trekking peak of Kala Pattar (5545m) nearby to get their photos of Everest, the Khumbu region and overlook base camp. As you can see in the photos, the contrast of snow and glacier with the rocks and blue skies left an impression of greatness, stark beauty and feeling humbled, standing at the foot of the famous peaks of Pumori (7165m), Lingtren (6749m ), Mt. Everest (8848m) and Nuptse (7861m).

The Khumbu Icefall

Each one of us was counting the days and hours to get back to warmer temperatures and comfort at lower altitudes. I for one was looking forward to a chicken curry! Eating vegetarian is ok but I missed the variety. Protein in our diet comes from eggs, cheese and lentils, however for some it is not enough. I lost 4 kgs on this trek. The physical challenge, the cold and altitude illness proved too much for some and we heli evac'd 2 people out from Pheriche, where 2 volunteer doctors recommended evacuation to hospital in Kathmandu. Two days later, 3 more succumbed to illness, cold and GI issues and were evacuated by helicopter. They all recovered and were doing quite a bit better when the 6 of us that finished the trek returned to Kathmandu. We were relieved that they had improved, were healthier and enjoyed a few days to rest at the Hotel Tibet. We arranged a celebration dinner buffet at the Radisson Hotel enjoying fresh salads, vegetables, meat dishes, delicious desserts, drinks, etc.

In spite of the challenges, we had a unique experience and enjoyed everyone's company on this amazing trek.

Langtang Trek 2014

After a stopover in Hong Kong and visit to the Big Buddha, an enthusiastic group of 9 arrived in Kathmandu and spent the first 2 nights at the comfortable Nirvana Garden Hotel. We weighed the trekking bags, ate a good breakfast and boarded the bus for a 6 hour drive to Dhunche. The road winds its way over a big ridge west of the Kathmandu valley, across several rivers and after a dal bhat lunch (rice, lentils, curry veg & pickle) in Trisuli Bazaar, climbed up to 1920m and entered the Langtang National Park. We continued on to Syabru Besi as the road now is paved down to the river and to where we started our trek.

On a bright, sunny morning we headed to a check post, across the bridge over the Bhote Khosi river and east to the trails bordering the Langtang Khola (river). We made it the first 1000 meters elevation gain to Rimche the first day and stayed in a small tea house. The food was good and sleep most welcome.

The next day we gained another 1000m over 6 hours and arrived in Langtang Village mid afternoon and were greeted by Jangbu, the proprietor of Hotel Tibet Guesthouse, a newer teahouse I stayed in 3 years ago when it was first built. We had a rest day planned the next day so folks showered, did laundry and charged camera batteries. We took a walk to the Cheese factory and had tea with fresh bread with tomatoes and nak cheese (a yak is a male, nak is a female!) Delicious!

After the rest day, we hiked further up the valley to Kyanjin Gompa at 3870m. We had dal bhat at the Gompa Guesthouse with the familiar (to me) owner cooking up a nice lunch. The sun was intense and everyone feeling the altitude - slight headaches, fatigue, etc. After a visit to the 500 year old Gompa (temple) we headed back down the valley to another night at Langtang village.

By now everyone was getting into the routine of packing up the trekking bags before breakfast so the porters could lash them together and get on the trail. Breakfasts of oatmeal, or eggs and toast, pancakes, tea and coffee were consumed and we got on the trail by 8am each day. Back down the valley we stayed again in Rimche and the stars at night were amazing. We had lunch at Landslide and then a fork in the trail took us up to Thula Syabru, high on a ridge at 2250m. (Well, I am not immune to pitfalls of travel - I drank a Fanta on the way and resulted in a serious food poisoning :- (







We changed the itinerary a bit and the group went off to Sing Gompa at 3330m climbing over 1000m via Phoprang Danda. This was through farms, a beautiful forest and into warm sunshine. A few folks who wanted an additional challenge headed up to Laurebina Yak and the Gosainkunda lakes, while some stayed for a rest day in Sing Gompa. In evenings, we all learned to play Dumbal, a Nepali card game that was great fun. There was a cheese factory here too so we took advantage of it, buying cheese and taking boiled eggs and chapatis for our lunch on the hike out to Dhunche. Arriving in Dhunche brought our trekking to a close and we had a celebration beer with our guide and porters, gave them their tips and prepared ourselves for the 6 hour bus ride back to Kathmandu. Warm showers, good food and shopping were available to the group upon returning.

We took a day trip to Bhaktapur, an old walled city in the Kathmandu valley. There were 3 old kingdoms (Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur) and they each have a royal square - Durbar Square. We also toured Pashupatinath, the holy Hindu temples on the banks of the Bagmati river and on to tour Bouddhanath, the Tibetan quarter, walking around the kora and having lunch on the rooftop cafe overlooking the largest Stupa in the world.

Well, as all things must come to a close, some folks flew to Hong Kong, some by car to Chitwan park, and some off to India or home. A great group, lots of laughs and with so much culture, mountain scenery and daily experiences, we will process this all in the months to come!  Everyone remained fairly healthy in spite of a few colds, coughs and sore muscles. Thanks to this amazing group for their support, curiosity and enthusiasm for trekking in Nepal.

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