Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Annapurna Circuit April 2013

My first trek to Nepal was in 2004 completing the Annapurna Circuit, known as one of the top 10 treks in the world. I had joined a wonderful group (mostly Kiwi's) and enjoyed the challenges of Kathmandu pollution, crazy roads and drivers, and back country trekking in the Himalayas.

But, I also fell for the amazing people, landscape, delicious vegetarian diet, and mostly the opportunity to experience treks in the Himalayas. The Annapurna range is in the central part of Nepal, which borders Tibet on the north and India to the south.


Having been back to Nepal now for the 9th time, I enjoy returning to organize treks to Nepal and introduce folks to Nepal's Hindu and Buddhist cultures as well as to the mountain regions. In addition, our treks provide some cash for the porter's and for the owners of tea houses while trekking. I have been privileged to lead 3 trekking groups into the Langtang Valley and 2 to the Annapurna Base camp (also known as the Annapurna Sanctuary). It is always rewarding but after having been to the ABC and sanctuary, I was increasingly curious to revisit the Circuit which goes all around the Annapurna range and over Thorung La pass into the Kali Gandaki valley.



Landslide area

Urba, one of our strongest porters



Finally this year, 9 others joined me in Kathmandu and headed out by bus to Besisahar, to the end of the paved road. We began our trek from Bhulebule to Bahundanda and when I saw Himalchuli and Manaslu, knew I was in for another great trek. The group was fun, experienced and very self sufficient, seven of whom had been with me on previous Nepal treks. Their experience ensured smooth departures and arrivals with no dramas. Their eyes were like mine - wider each day we gained altitude with the incredible views!


We began trekking at around 850 meters altitude and over 12 days went as high as 5416 meters over the Thorung La Pass. Each day's trek was from 4 to 6 hours of walking on narrow trails, crossing suspension bridges, through small villages and farms, and on new roads. Yes, roads! This was one of the changes I heard was happening in the 9 years since being there. Construction was continuing slowly destroying trails while we walked. It is an unfortunate consequence of villagers (like any one of us) wanting easier access to health care, supplies and speed in travel. In the old days, many had to walk for days to see a doctor. Now they can call a jeep or 4 X 4 and be out to medical attention in a day. There is no road from Manang over the pass to Muktinath at the other end of the trail. However, at that end they have also built roads on the old trails. This is discouraging trekkers as few want to walk on roads with dust, dirt, exhaust, etc. in their faces. Now I have heard many villages are building new trails on the other side of the valley to retain the trekking business so critical to those who run tea houses and other amenities.



'Kani' near Bahundanda



 As you can see in the photos, weather was stellar. We had only a few days of cloud/rain in Manang, and a thunderstorm on a couple of afternoons. The higher altitude we gained, the colder the nights with frost. The final 2 nights before the pass were about minus 5 to minus 10C. The days above 3500 meters were generally warm when the sun shone to temps about +18C while trekking.








The big day! On April 13 we got up at 4 am, after a restless and cold sleep at High Camp (4925 meters), packed our bags, ate some porridge with tea and began to trek at 5 am with the light of our headlamps under the stars. The sun started to touch the tops of the 6000 and 7000 meter peaks around 6:15am and then daylight lit our way. It was truly a feeling of being on top of the world!
5am heading up

Final approach to Thorung La

A few other groups were strung out on the trail and the warmth of the sun was most welcome. The intensity of the sun was extreme. Out came sunscreen, brimmed hats replaced toques and polarized sunglasses were absolutely necessary to deal with the reflected light of the sun. We arrived at the top of the Thorung La pass around 8am. It was a celebration of success and also April 13 was Nepali New Year's eve. It was also one year since my knee surgery and I was feeling pretty good. I hung some prayer flags for my father who passed away in December. I felt so thankful and my tears were of gratitude for this incredible journey, now complete for the second time and I was also thankful that all my group made it safely over the pass!
Gyanu and me on Thorung La at 5416 meters


This photo of the sign shows us standing on snow at the height of the sign, whereas in 2004 I stood beside it with my elbow on the top of the sign. Two meters of snow packed the pass this time!



We paused for photos, and began the long 1700 meter descent through snow and icy sections, then back on the steep, narrow rocky trails to Muktinath where we enjoyed a wonderful celebration. It clouded up and snowed in Muktinath that afternoon and evening. We heard that folks crossing the pass the next day saw nothing as it had clouded up over the pass, it snowed and visibility was reduced to mere meters. What luck for us! Thanks to our wonderful porters and our guide Gyanu - they were the best support team we could ever hope for. My thanks, too, to all the participants in the trek - their enthusiasm, energy, humour and curiosity were so enjoyable!

Nilgiri North


Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Yoga in Nepal

A wonderful group left Edmonton March 16 for 11 nights in Nepal for a daily yoga practice in some special places! We stopped in Hong Kong, tried to get out to the Big Buddha but long lines prevented us from getting a bus in time. (The gondola was shut down for maintenance!) So we spent the day in the airport resting ready for our flight to Kathmandu.





The Vajra Hotel near Swayambunath in Kathmandu was our home for the first 3 nights. We had the use of the wonderful Pagoda room in the top of the hotel. The birds cheered us on and the east door allowed the early morning sunlight to welcome us each day. After practice we headed to the dining room for our first coffee, fresh buns, bananas, curd and the tastiest potatoes! This gave us energy to walk the stairs to the Monkey Temple on the first day.





Subsequent days we headed to Pashupatinath, the holy Hindu temples where families were preparing bodies for their cremation after the souls had departed. I sounds raw, but this is real life here! We walked past Sadhus, holy men painted in ashes, wearing little more than a loincloth and offering to be photographed for baksheesh offerings. There were monkeys all over but very few deer in the park when we walked through the Shiva temple area.





On to Boudhanath, the Tibetan area east of the downtown. There are a collection of over 32 Tibetan gompas, temples surrounding the largest Stupa in the world! Locals, pilgrims and visitors walk clockwise around the kora turning prayer wheels, chanting mantras, and taking photographs. It is a unique experience. Lunch in a rooftop restaurant allows one to observe the people, activities and with luck perhaps some clear views of the Himalayas. The smog and haze varies from day to day.





















Our 4th day was a 6 hour bus trip to Pokhara, the second largest city in Nepal. On the way we stopped at Riverside Resort in the middle of the biggest thunderstorm and rain any of us had seen since last summer. Onward to Pokhara and the weather cleared giving us some amazing views of Annapurna South from the top of Sarankot, the highest mountain near town. Several brave and adventurous yoginis decided to do the paragliding from the top of Sarankot with an enjoyable float down to the city. Of course our daily yoga practice helped start each day in Blue Planet Lodge, just a few short minutes from the centre of town called Pokhara Lakeside.


Shopping was on the agenda most days, as well as delicious dinners at Moondance Restaurant! Their pizzas, palak paneer, chicken tikka masala and lemon meringue pie were the best. Unfortunately, I went to another restaurant (the Olive Restaurant) and got food poisoning. This laid me up for 2 full days, and we still did our daily yoga practice in the yoga room, as I slowly recovered. It is not unusual to succumb to some traveler's diarrhea, etc but food poisoning is also not fun.



After our 4th night in BPL we took a bus to Begnas Lake and took a silent float on one of the resort boats to the Begnas Lake resort. Our rooms were spotless and the food amazing (now that some of us were eating again!) Our daily yoga practice was out in a covered area in the garden. We were joined by squirrels, long-tailed birds, and a few other unknown critters for our yoga. Even one of the local yoga teachers joined us one morning! Everyone claimed this was the best part of our yoga and culture tour. Quiet days and nights at the resort, walks to the local organic coffee place, a school and most of us will not forget walking the road while motorcycles whipped by with painted faced drivers and passengers all shouting out "happy Holy!" to us, celebrating a local festival as we strolled the ridge.




We flew on a short 30 minute flight back to Kathmandu and bused to the Hotel Tibet in Lazimpat, just north of the royal palace. It is a traditional Tibetan design with comfortable rooms, wonderful restaurant and a special Yoga and Meditation room and terrace on the rooftop. We had excellent views of the city and the mountains!


























The time came for the group to pack and prepare for their flight home. We spent the afternoon in the Garden of Dreams, a quiet but beautiful garden in the centre of town. Things were greening and blooming, accompanied by many different kinds of birds. Then off to dinner and the airport for the evening flight back home. All in all, a Yoga and culture tour that fulfilled the dreams of our group!







Namaste,
Neil