Annapurna Circuit April 2013

My first trek to Nepal was in 2004 completing the Annapurna Circuit, known as one of the top 10 treks in the world. I had joined a wonderful group (mostly Kiwi's) and enjoyed the challenges of Kathmandu pollution, crazy roads and drivers, and back country trekking in the Himalayas.

But, I also fell for the amazing people, landscape, delicious vegetarian diet, and mostly the opportunity to experience treks in the Himalayas. The Annapurna range is in the central part of Nepal, which borders Tibet on the north and India to the south.

Having been back to Nepal now for the 9th time, I enjoy returning to organize treks to Nepal and introduce folks to Nepal's Hindu and Buddhist cultures as well as to the mountain regions. In addition, our treks provide some cash for the porter's and for the owners of tea houses while trekking. I have been privileged to lead 3 trekking groups into the Langtang Valley and 2 to the Annapurna Base camp (also known as the Annapurna Sanctuary). It is always rewarding but after having been to the ABC and sanctuary, I was increasingly curious to revisit the Circuit which goes all around the Annapurna range and over Thorung La pass into the Kali Gandaki valley.

Landslide area

Urba, one of our strongest porters

Finally this year, 9 others joined me in Kathmandu and headed out by bus to Besisahar, to the end of the paved road. We began our trek from Bhulebule to Bahundanda and when I saw Himalchuli and Manaslu, knew I was in for another great trek. The group was fun, experienced and very self sufficient, seven of whom had been with me on previous Nepal treks. Their experience ensured smooth departures and arrivals with no dramas. Their eyes were like mine - wider each day we gained altitude with the incredible views!


We began trekking at around 850 meters altitude and over 12 days went as high as 5416 meters over the Thorung La Pass. Each day's trek was from 4 to 6 hours of walking on narrow trails, crossing suspension bridges, through small villages and farms, and on new roads. Yes, roads! This was one of the changes I heard was happening in the 9 years since being there. Construction was continuing slowly destroying trails while we walked. It is an unfortunate consequence of villagers (like any one of us) wanting easier access to health care, supplies and speed in travel. In the old days, many had to walk for days to see a doctor. Now they can call a jeep or 4 X 4 and be out to medical attention in a day. There is no road from Manang over the pass to Muktinath at the other end of the trail. However, at that end they have also built roads on the old trails. This is discouraging trekkers as few want to walk on roads with dust, dirt, exhaust, etc. in their faces. Now I have heard many villages are building new trails on the other side of the valley to retain the trekking business so critical to those who run tea houses and other amenities.

'Kani' near Bahundanda

 As you can see in the photos, weather was stellar. We had only a few days of cloud/rain in Manang, and a thunderstorm on a couple of afternoons. The higher altitude we gained, the colder the nights with frost. The final 2 nights before the pass were about minus 5 to minus 10C. The days above 3500 meters were generally warm when the sun shone to temps about +18C while trekking.

The big day! On April 13 we got up at 4 am, after a restless and cold sleep at High Camp (4925 meters), packed our bags, ate some porridge with tea and began to trek at 5 am with the light of our headlamps under the stars. The sun started to touch the tops of the 6000 and 7000 meter peaks around 6:15am and then daylight lit our way. It was truly a feeling of being on top of the world!

5am heading up

Final approach to Thorung La

A few other groups were strung out on the trail and the warmth of the sun was most welcome. The intensity of the sun was extreme. Out came sunscreen, brimmed hats replaced toques and polarized sunglasses were absolutely necessary to deal with the reflected light of the sun. We arrived at the top of the Thorung La pass around 8am. It was a celebration of success and also April 13 was Nepali New Year's eve. It was also one year since my knee surgery and I was feeling pretty good. I hung some prayer flags for my father who passed away in December. I felt so thankful and my tears were of gratitude for this incredible journey, now complete for the second time and I was also thankful that all my group made it safely over the pass!

Gyanu and me on Thorung La at 5416 meters

This photo of the sign shows us standing on snow at the height of the sign, whereas in 2004 I stood beside it with my elbow on the top of the sign. Two meters of snow packed the pass this time!

We paused for photos, and began the long 1700 meter descent through snow and icy sections, then back on the steep, narrow rocky trails to Muktinath where we enjoyed a wonderful celebration. It clouded up and snowed in Muktinath that afternoon and evening. We heard that folks crossing the pass the next day saw nothing as it had clouded up over the pass, it snowed and visibility was reduced to mere meters. What luck for us! Thanks to our wonderful porters and our guide Gyanu - they were the best support team we could ever hope for. My thanks, too, to all the participants in the trek - their enthusiasm, energy, humour and curiosity were so enjoyable!

Nilgiri North