Annapurna Circuit April 2013

My first trek to Nepal was in 2004 completing the Annapurna Circuit, known as one of the top 10 treks in the world. I had joined a wonderful group (mostly Kiwi's) and enjoyed the challenges of Kathmandu pollution, crazy roads and drivers, and back country trekking in the Himalayas.

But, I also fell for the amazing people, landscape, delicious vegetarian diet, and mostly the opportunity to experience treks in the Himalayas. The Annapurna range is in the central part of Nepal, which borders Tibet on the north and India to the south.

Having been back to Nepal now for the 9th time, I enjoy returning to organize treks to Nepal and introduce folks to Nepal's Hindu and Buddhist cultures as well as to the mountain regions. In addition, our treks provide some cash for the porter's and for the owners of tea houses while trekking. I have been privileged to lead 3 trekking groups into the Langtang Valley and 2 to the Annapurna Base camp (also known as the Annapurna Sanctuary). It is always rewarding but after having been to the ABC and sanctuary, I was increasingly curious to revisit the Circuit which goes all around the Annapurna range and over Thorung La pass into the Kali Gandaki valley.

Landslide area

Urba, one of our strongest porters

Finally this year, 9 others joined me in Kathmandu and headed out by bus to Besisahar, to the end of the paved road. We began our trek from Bhulebule to Bahundanda and when I saw Himalchuli and Manaslu, knew I was in for another great trek. The group was fun, experienced and very self sufficient, seven of whom had been with me on previous Nepal treks. Their experience ensured smooth departures and arrivals with no dramas. Their eyes were like mine - wider each day we gained altitude with the incredible views!


We began trekking at around 850 meters altitude and over 12 days went as high as 5416 meters over the Thorung La Pass. Each day's trek was from 4 to 6 hours of walking on narrow trails, crossing suspension bridges, through small villages and farms, and on new roads. Yes, roads! This was one of the changes I heard was happening in the 9 years since being there. Construction was continuing slowly destroying trails while we walked. It is an unfortunate consequence of villagers (like any one of us) wanting easier access to health care, supplies and speed in travel. In the old days, many had to walk for days to see a doctor. Now they can call a jeep or 4 X 4 and be out to medical attention in a day. There is no road from Manang over the pass to Muktinath at the other end of the trail. However, at that end they have also built roads on the old trails. This is discouraging trekkers as few want to walk on roads with dust, dirt, exhaust, etc. in their faces. Now I have heard many villages are building new trails on the other side of the valley to retain the trekking business so critical to those who run tea houses and other amenities.

'Kani' near Bahundanda

 As you can see in the photos, weather was stellar. We had only a few days of cloud/rain in Manang, and a thunderstorm on a couple of afternoons. The higher altitude we gained, the colder the nights with frost. The final 2 nights before the pass were about minus 5 to minus 10C. The days above 3500 meters were generally warm when the sun shone to temps about +18C while trekking.

The big day! On April 13 we got up at 4 am, after a restless and cold sleep at High Camp (4925 meters), packed our bags, ate some porridge with tea and began to trek at 5 am with the light of our headlamps under the stars. The sun started to touch the tops of the 6000 and 7000 meter peaks around 6:15am and then daylight lit our way. It was truly a feeling of being on top of the world!

5am heading up

Final approach to Thorung La

A few other groups were strung out on the trail and the warmth of the sun was most welcome. The intensity of the sun was extreme. Out came sunscreen, brimmed hats replaced toques and polarized sunglasses were absolutely necessary to deal with the reflected light of the sun. We arrived at the top of the Thorung La pass around 8am. It was a celebration of success and also April 13 was Nepali New Year's eve. It was also one year since my knee surgery and I was feeling pretty good. I hung some prayer flags for my father who passed away in December. I felt so thankful and my tears were of gratitude for this incredible journey, now complete for the second time and I was also thankful that all my group made it safely over the pass!

Gyanu and me on Thorung La at 5416 meters

This photo of the sign shows us standing on snow at the height of the sign, whereas in 2004 I stood beside it with my elbow on the top of the sign. Two meters of snow packed the pass this time!

We paused for photos, and began the long 1700 meter descent through snow and icy sections, then back on the steep, narrow rocky trails to Muktinath where we enjoyed a wonderful celebration. It clouded up and snowed in Muktinath that afternoon and evening. We heard that folks crossing the pass the next day saw nothing as it had clouded up over the pass, it snowed and visibility was reduced to mere meters. What luck for us! Thanks to our wonderful porters and our guide Gyanu - they were the best support team we could ever hope for. My thanks, too, to all the participants in the trek - their enthusiasm, energy, humour and curiosity were so enjoyable!

Nilgiri North

Yoga in Nepal

A wonderful group left Edmonton March 16 for 11 nights in Nepal for a daily yoga practice in some special places! We stopped in Hong Kong, tried to get out to the Big Buddha but long lines prevented us from getting a bus in time. (The gondola was shut down for maintenance!) So we spent the day in the airport resting ready for our flight to Kathmandu.

The Vajra Hotel near Swayambunath in Kathmandu was our home for the first 3 nights. We had the use of the wonderful Pagoda room in the top of the hotel. The birds cheered us on and the east door allowed the early morning sunlight to welcome us each day. After practice we headed to the dining room for our first coffee, fresh buns, bananas, curd and the tastiest potatoes! This gave us energy to walk the stairs to the Monkey Temple on the first day.

Subsequent days we headed to Pashupatinath, the holy Hindu temples where families were preparing bodies for their cremation after the souls had departed. I sounds raw, but this is real life here! We walked past Sadhus, holy men painted in ashes, wearing little more than a loincloth and offering to be photographed for baksheesh offerings. There were monkeys all over but very few deer in the park when we walked through the Shiva temple area.





On to Boudhanath, the Tibetan area east of the downtown. There are a collection of over 32 Tibetan gompas, temples surrounding the largest Stupa in the world! Locals, pilgrims and visitors walk clockwise around the kora turning prayer wheels, chanting mantras, and taking photographs. It is a unique experience. Lunch in a rooftop restaurant allows one to observe the people, activities and with luck perhaps some clear views of the Himalayas. The smog and haze varies from day to day.





















Our 4th day was a 6 hour bus trip to Pokhara, the second largest city in Nepal. On the way we stopped at Riverside Resort in the middle of the biggest thunderstorm and rain any of us had seen since last summer. Onward to Pokhara and the weather cleared giving us some amazing views of Annapurna South from the top of Sarankot, the highest mountain near town. Several brave and adventurous yoginis decided to do the paragliding from the top of Sarankot with an enjoyable float down to the city. Of course our daily yoga practice helped start each day in Blue Planet Lodge, just a few short minutes from the centre of town called Pokhara Lakeside.

Shopping was on the agenda most days, as well as delicious dinners at Moondance Restaurant! Their pizzas, palak paneer, chicken tikka masala and lemon meringue pie were the best. Unfortunately, I went to another restaurant (the Olive Restaurant) and got food poisoning. This laid me up for 2 full days, and we still did our daily yoga practice in the yoga room, as I slowly recovered. It is not unusual to succumb to some traveler's diarrhea, etc but food poisoning is also not fun.

After our 4th night in BPL we took a bus to Begnas Lake and took a silent float on one of the resort boats to the Begnas Lake resort. Our rooms were spotless and the food amazing (now that some of us were eating again!) Our daily yoga practice was out in a covered area in the garden. We were joined by squirrels, long-tailed birds, and a few other unknown critters for our yoga. Even one of the local yoga teachers joined us one morning! Everyone claimed this was the best part of our yoga and culture tour. Quiet days and nights at the resort, walks to the local organic coffee place, a school and most of us will not forget walking the road while motorcycles whipped by with painted faced drivers and passengers all shouting out "happy Holy!" to us, celebrating a local festival as we strolled the ridge.

We flew on a short 30 minute flight back to Kathmandu and bused to the Hotel Tibet in Lazimpat, just north of the royal palace. It is a traditional Tibetan design with comfortable rooms, wonderful restaurant and a special Yoga and Meditation room and terrace on the rooftop. We had excellent views of the city and the mountains!

The time came for the group to pack and prepare for their flight home. We spent the afternoon in the Garden of Dreams, a quiet but beautiful garden in the centre of town. Things were greening and blooming, accompanied by many different kinds of birds. Then off to dinner and the airport for the evening flight back home. All in all, a Yoga and culture tour that fulfilled the dreams of our group!







Namaste,
Neil

Annapurna Base Camp Trek

After arriving in Kathmandu, our group were whisked to the Nirvana Garden Hotel, a very busy one in the Thamel area. The location is great but wish they would spend some money fixing the hot water for showers and the plumbing while they are at it. Of course the water is still not safe to drink, brush teeth nor shower with your mouth open!

The city is still very busy, noisy with car horns and a million motorbikes whizzing past at fast speeds compared to pedestrian, rickshaw, cows, and dogs!

After breakfast our group went to Swayambunath, the Monkey temple across the Bisnumati river. The river is still very polluted, full of plastic bags but obvious that it is getting cleaned up. There was even a pig with an egret on its back picking through the heaps of garbage floating on the filthy water. But, this is Kathmandu.


Interesting to now notice changes. Our walk to the Hindu and Buddhist temples was good training for the legs on the many steps. We outmaneuvered the sellers and touts to get to the top. Good views of the city and a pleasant walk down to the kora and around. There are still beggars and those selling butter lamps, but there seemed fewer for some reason. Perhaps festival season?

Next day we were on the bus to Phedi, near Pokhara for our first day on the trail. We arrived quite late in Dhampus, but got some great photos of the Annapurna range in sunset hues. The night was clear and the stars amazing as ever!




Over the Deurali ridge and down through farms of millet, rice, potatoes and cabbage all the way to Landruk. The heat of the day felt good on the skin. Nights are cool and we are thankful for down sleeping bags. A breakfast of millet pancakes, bananas, muesli and curd, omelettes, etc we crossed the Modi Kola and on up to Jinhu Danda, where there is a hot spring. Lunched there and continued the big climb up to Chhomrong arriving early afternoon.

The next few days provided lots of up and down, but net elevation gains in the 300-500m range. Deurali was frosty and cold, but the walk up to MBC  (Machhapuchhre Base Camp at 3800m) was clear and the views of Annapurna, Tharpu Chuli, etc were spectacular. We had a bowl of soup and tea before heading up to ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) at 4130m. Afternoon cloud started around noon and slowly built as the afternoon progressed. We heard a huge rumble and saw a serac drop down causing an avalanche through a gulley to the slopes below. We hung prayer flags, got some picture, and went inside for lunch and to warm up. The wind was biting cold. We all had our gloves, toques and heavier clothing on.

Back to overnight in MBC, a very cold night in our rooms. The lodge cook coughed over everything including our meals - yuk! Consequently, nearly everyone succumbed to a cold and cough over the following days as we trekked back to Chhomrong. We could see Tadapani a long way up the next valley and spent the better part of the next day gaining 900m to our tea house there. An incredible sunset and we watched a snowstorm hit Deurali and MBC where we had been only days before!

Within 2 days we were on our way to Birithanti where we had lunch and walked the final 30 minutes out to the main road where we found our bus. Off to Pokhara and checked into the Gurkha Havel hotel in damside. We ordered beer and snacks to share with our porters and celebrate by giving them their tips and a fun sendoff as they all wanted to hit the night bus to Kathmandu - it was Tihar, a big festival which they wanted to spend with their family and friends. We had hot showers, a delicious dinner and off to bed for a well-earned sleep.

Our 30 minute flight to Kathmandu was uneventful and we were back at the Nirvana Garden hotel by about 4 pm. Dinner was planned at Fire and Ice, the best pizza anywhere! Shopping was on the agenda for many over the next few days. A day tour to Pashupatinath (Hindu temples) and Boudhanath (the Tibetan Buddhist area and stupa) showed a bit more of the culture of Nepal. 

ABC trek November 2012

Hard to believe that I am once again preparing to return to Nepal. I have a wonderful group joining me in Kathmandu November 1st and we will head out to Phedi near Pokhara November 3 to start trekking to Annapurna Base Camp. I am hoping for clear weather and know it will be cool at nights.

My plan is to enjoy the trek with the group, then plan to fly to Lumbini on the Nepal/Indian border to see the birthplace of the Buddha and the temples there. Also hoping to arrange a visit to the Dhading school to see what current needs are as well as return to Pokhara and spend a few days there preparing for the Yoga and Culture tour that I will lead next March.

So, for now, it is all about packing, getting my yoga classes covered, med's and immunizations, etc.

Watch for more from Nepal.

Namaste!

Buddhist Nepal

About 11% of the 29 million people in Nepal are Buddhist - the rest are 81% Hindu, with a small proportion of Muslim, Christian, etc.

The Buddhist centre of Kathmandu is the area of Boudhanath, part of the Kathmandu UNESCO World heritage site. The largest stupa on earth is the centre of Boudha, an important place of pilgrimage for Buddhists from all over the world. Buddhists and Hindus peacefully exist in this country and often you will see their temples side by side, the example being Swayambunath, the Monkey Temple. Fortunately, religious tolerance is a special trait of Nepali's. Hindus and Buddhists share beliefs in karma (the law of cause and effect), rebirth and some deities. (Vishnu is believed to be a reincarnation of the Buddha)

Boudhanath is surrounded by 26 monasteries many of which host international students, monks and nuns studying Buddhism. The stupa is 120 feet in diameter and 43 feet high and is said to have relics of the Buddha buried deep within. It has a kora (clockwise walkway), many shops selling thangkas, Tibetan prayer wheels, singing bowls, necklaces, music CD's and incense. Tibetan exiles, many of whom live nearby, walk the kora, run shops, and practice their daily rituals.

Pashupatinath - the Holy Hindu Temples

Pashupatinath have the holy Hindu temples not far from Boudha. Daily cremations occur on the ghats on the banks of the Bagmati river. Hospices next to the temples allow the sick and elderly to be near their gods upon death. This is also part of the Kathmandu UNESCO World heritage site.

The ghats are shown below...

Another morning in Nepal

It has turned cold in Pokhara, with rain 3 nights in a row. The locals are now wearing toques, and dressed in sweaters and jackets, bundled up in the cool air, complaining of the cold, saying winter is coming early. It is +20C!! I guess compared to the normal +28C in recent weeks, this is quite a change.

Walking the streets in the morning is an experience of the senses! The air is hazy, a slight breeze with smells of the earth, cows and goats, their droppings, garbage, exhaust, diesel fumes and delicious smells of food cooking. Motorbike and bus horns are endless, disruptive but necessary for navigation. Cows wander and chickens scratch freely in the streets, searching for another meal. I watch a small herd of water buffalo head for a yard under construction where they have just cut the trees, happily discovering something green to eat. You dodge gobs of spit, cow poop, speed bumps, orange peels and various food debris, and really need to watch you don't fall into holes, cracks or trip on pipes, rocks and people. There are women in front of small restaurants washing the breakfast dishes under hoses that come out of the ground in the gutters, rinsing them and tossing the water into the streets. Children as small as 3 up to class 10 are dressed in neat school uniforms clustered in front of schools, homes and colleges. The business of the city evident on the streets each day. 







Unfortunately the cool wet weather means the farmers cannot cut rice for harvest and must wait for warmer weather. They need about 3-5 days of dry weather after cutting to properly dry the rice. This is a staple crop for the people of Nepal. A late start to monsoons, a late finish and early winter have made it very challenging to farm this year.





There are lots of fruits and vegetables available in the market now. Potatoes (alu), tomatoes, radish (mula), zuccini, ginger (adwa), onions (piatz), escous, bitter gourd, cabbage (banda), spinach (saag), etc. are readily available, much of it grown in home gardens. An abundance of fruit is also available - bananas (keera), apples (seew), oranges, lemons, pumpkins, pomegranates, squash, pomellos, etc.


You now get the picture!